Zihan (Amy) Peng | RISD Museum Publications

Grad Show 2021

A- A A+

ZIHAN PENG

AMY

THE TRANSFORMERS

ABSTRACT

This collection and book were inspired by a TED talk called “I broke up with fast fashion and you should too” by founder of The UpCycle Project Gabriella Smith. After I heard this inspiring talk, I reflected a lot on my own habits of clothes shopping during different life stages, how I became a fan of fast fashion, and how Covid-19 has impacted the way I shop and dress. I soon dug further into the ugly truth about the fast fashion industry’s environmental impacts, how their marketing strategies lure the general public to consume more products, and potential solutions to fulfill our natural “vanity” by making versatile clothing using sustainable materials. This collection of garments, which I call Transformers, is like a set of building blocks in clothes form, designed for different body shapes, different personalities, and different occasions. Wearers can play with the clothes and explore multiple styles with each garment individually and in combination. The Transformers are my weapon against fast fashion.

THE collection of transformers

Fabrics: Recycled polyester/Silk/Old bed sheet/Fabric Scraps

Accessories: Chinese button not/reflective piping/elastic string

This Collection includes in total 8 transformable pieces, I named each of them by its transformability. From 2-WAY TRANSFORMERS to 4-WAY, and to THE ULTIMATE TRANSFORMERS. However, the numbers of the forms within each garment are not limited, wearers can play with the garments to explore more forms and combinations that I haven't found out.

TRANSFORMERS USER GUIDE

3-Way Transformer (Pants, Short Skirt, Shawl)

Attributes: double-sided (reversible) fabric, one size, easy to switch forms

Occasions: office, weekends, travel

Seasons: Spring and Fall

Materials: silk , lyocell

The 3-Way Transformer has three different iterations. As pants, it is inspired by a traditional Thai fisherman pants pattern, with wide, ankle-length legs and a partial second layer that flows over the first. As a short skirt, it’s symmetrical, falling just above the knees. Last, as a shawl, the pattern falls from the neck to the waist on the wearer’s back, and on the front, two wide panels cover or reveal the shoulders and chest. The garment’s closure system combines strings built into a tunnel for the waistline and buttons for closing the shawl.

Transformer I (sleeves + dress + skirt)

Attributes: stretchy, one size, easy to switch forms, easy to match

Occasions: weekends, travel

Seasons: spring and summer

Materials: recycled polyester

The Transformer I has many different iterations. One part can be worn as a strapless dress or a long skirt, the other as a cropped set of sleeves. The simple shape, stretchy fabric, and transparency allow the wearer to combine the parts with other outfits. This piece is made of very lightweight recycled polyester chiffon with crinkled pleats created by gathering the fabric and setting it in boiling water. An elastic string is sewn into the top of the dress so that anyone from size XS to L can wear it. The pattern is digitally printed hand-made marbling. This piece is perfect for short-term travel, because of its wrinkle-free, lightweight, and versatile features.

2-Way Transformer (Tunic and Blouse)

Attributes: upcycled fabric, varied textures, one size, detachable collar

Occasions: weekends, travel

Seasons: spring and fall

Materials: natural dyed cotton and linen fabric scraps

This garment has two iterations. It can be worn as a tunic or a blouse. As a tunic, the body part is wide and A-line, with short sleeves. Rotating the garment 90 degrees, it transforms into a blouse, with a fitted bodice and wide, kimono-style sleeves. Magnets on each side of the panels form the sleeves and side closure. The detachable collar can be worn with either look, in two styles: upright on the tunic, and relaxed on the shoulders on the blouse. Several snap fasteners attach the collar to the garment. It is sewn with an elastic cord to create gathering and a string allows the wearer to adjust the style and tightness.

2-Way Transformer (Dress and Blouse)

Attributes: upcycled fabric, varied textures, easy to match

Occasions: weekends, travel

Seasons: spring and summer

Materials: old cotton bed sheet, reflective piping, fabric decorating glue （blue line）

Square Transformer (Blanket, Coat, Shirt)

Attributes: recycled polyester, one size, cotton fill

Occasions: travel, camping, at home

Seasons: except summer

Materials: printed recycled polyester, blue Chinese frog, cotton fill,

The Square Transformer is a wearable blanket that has many different dressing styles. As a blanket, it is a 55 x 55-inch cotton fill square blanket. As a coat, it is a half-length sleeveless coat with several iterations. As a skirt, it is an asymmetrical long skirt with a wide uneven hem. The garment is constructed by two identical triangles and 11 Chinese frog buttons on the long sides of the triangles( the diagonal line of the square). On each triangle, there is a small opening in the middle where the wearer's arm passes through. Wearers can adjust the style and length simply by closing or opening the buttons.

Ultimate Transformer (Any form you could think of)

Attributes: recycled polyester, double-sided (reversible), one size, reflective decoration

Occasions: travel, event, daily

Seasons: spring and summer

Materials: printed recycled polyester, neon green Chinese button knots, neon yellow reflective piping, yellow elastic

The Ultimate Transformer is a double-sided garment that can be worn in infinite ways. It is completely multi-directional, the garment fits the body whether up, down, or sideways; in fact, all sides are the top, bottom, or side. The garment is constructed with two layers of printed recycled polyester, the fabric is soft , lightweight and wrinkle-free, it's less lustrous than silk but glossier than chiffon. The pattern of both sides are about fashion waste and the relationship between landfill and recycling clothes. The green icon is a trash can icon with a distorted recycle sign. The meaning of this icon is based on a fact from my research. A huge amount of the old clothes we denote will end up in landfills, so donating old clothes or putting them in the recycle bin is not the ethical reason for you to dump your old clothes and buy a new one.

3-Way Transformer ( Cloak, Dress, Cape, )

Attributes: recycled polyester, double-sided (reversible), one size,

Occasions: ball, party, travel, semi-formal

Seasons: spring and fall

Materials: printed recycled polyester and black silk, orange Chinese button knot

The 3-way Transformer has three different iterations. As a cloak, it is inspired by the traditional cloak style of ancient times, it has a full body length and is fastened by two silk ribbons at the neck, the clock can be closed with 4 Chinese button knots in the front on each side. As a dress, rotate the cloak style 90 degrees and there is a small opening on one side where the arm can go through. As a cape, the wearer's head passes through the side opening and the gathering moves from the neck to the chest.